Thursday 21 August 2014

Hasta Luego Panama

More friendship memories!

I think the Panama blues are out of my system for a while because I HAVE A JOB…Which means I can afford to go back!!

Anyway, so I’m down to the last few of the lovely people I became friends with along the way that I’ll hopefully be seeing again before too long!


I’ve mentioned my girls I taught English to before, but for anyone that wants the most adorable Spanish exchange student(s) for a week or two, let me know! Hopefully the girls will come over to visit me and get even better at Irish-English (not American-English) some day! I’m following the two (Alejandra and Anayansi) on Instagram and the pics since I’ve left remind me time and time again why Panama is such a great place- people appreciate their parents, siblings and friends and so proud of it it’s lovely. We could do with more of that!



Me, Anayansi and Alejandra


The girl’s Mammy Anayansi is the reason I got my insight into a lot of what Panama is all about! She involved me in everything and loved hearing about me and my life in Ireland. She took me off with her to the Robot Expo in Panama that Anayansi was competing at and I got to go to my very own ‘Quince Anos’- Alejandra’s 15th Birthday party! An evening in their house was even spent playing Just Dance! So cute!


Mammy Anayansi


Juanita was my nurse in the health centre and I always thought her name was spelled Gwanita… oops! This special lady facilitated my whole project and made it the most enjoyable place to be heading for recruitment every morning! Even though at the start our understanding of each other was pretty poor she had the patience of a saint and even called her son in to help us out. I’ve been wearing the ear rings she gave me ever since I got back. I was so proud to be able to present my results to her cheering me on when we finished up in May. When I get back she promises me I’ll be able to find her in the new health centre they’re moving into!


Juanita and I


I have to give my ‘CrossFit Gym’ place White Lion and Jhon a mention too… never in my life have I sweat so much and felt so welcome in what’s usually a fairly intimidating environment.  Jhon was such an encouraging trainer and really pushed me while I was at the gym…and also spent the time teaching me even though he knew I was leaving before too long. I looked forward to going every evening and could spend hours there having the craic sweating it out. And the punch bag definitely got its fair dues some nights too when I needed it! Boxing should be a form of therapy! The other people that used the gym like Herson, Nerys, Yamy and Rufino were exceptional, camaraderie is what the place was all about!  Jhon and I had a funny finish-up at the end but that’s another story I’ll be saving from the realms of the internet!

The gym crew, Jhon is in the front row in a blue shirt


Julissa was my swimming pool friend, she was so cute and always talked to me whenever we were both there, she helped her mum in restaurant belonging to the pool but always came over to chat and ask me questions, Julissa helped me learn Spanish and lots more besides!



The San Blas Islands is a place I'll never forget, nor will I forget Branden, Germain or Kevin from Carti Homestay.  
Branden is the most incredibly zen Texan ever who's essentially woofing on the islands, humbly sharing his knowledge of the Kuna culture that he's become an expert in since he's learned their language. 
Germain and Kevin are an uncle-nephew team. Kevin grew up in La Chorrera (small world!), he's 17, studying tourism and has a soft spot for German girls. While Germain, his uncle is the brains of the operation. I got very luck to be put in touch with Germain through an Irish girl I met in Panama, but Germain also knew the director of the health centre Andréas so the stars collided and we were in his good books, especially since I spoke Spanish! We were treated like royalty and welcomed into Germain's home on the island, got the real-deal tour of the place and fell in love with its beauty as we were whisked from one island to another. 
When people love what they do it's hard for me not to love them.


Me standing beside Kevin and Germain is thte guy in the white shirt


Finally, my fantastic Panama experience would not have been possible without Odilia, my thesis supervisor. She's from La Chorrera but now lectures in Boston. What a hero. She was welcoming, supportive, encouraging and took very good care of us in both Boston and Panama. A role model and one of my girl power gals!


Shivs, Odilia and I



Panama, te amo y voy a regresar! 


Wednesday 30 July 2014

Panama Nostalgia on Friendship Day



I’m home about two months now (sob), and so I've been meaning to do this for a while!


My time in Panama came to an end, as I knew it would, but that didn't make it any easier, even knowing I was hopping on a flight to Cuba didn't change that (more on that to come!).


Panama is just the best. I want to BE Latino! I want to be fluent in Spanish, live where it’s weird not to ass-dance (officially known as Freak Dancing I've recently learned) on nights out, where I can listen to the fantastic music all the time and LOVE taking the bus!

I knew I’d miss my Mamma Rutí and Paul and his friends that I’d robbed so the week before I left I watched like four ‘sad’ movies to get the ‘sadness’ out of my system before I had to say goodbye for real, incidentally, Brokeback Mountain nor Captain Phillips are apparently sad enough, but in any case I said my goodbyes to Mamma Rutí and Paul and the few friends I’d made.

Paul, Shivs, Me, Mamma Rutí


Life is all about the people you meet along the way.



I felt at home in Panama thanks to the people…even if I was acutely aware of being a foreigner every time I stepped outside the door (I’ll never be tanned enough to pass for Latino)!
So I want to tell you about some of the people that made Panama so special for me.

Most importantly my Mamma Rutí, she is the best lady ever! She was like my own mammy, and I can only hope I'm like her and my own mammy by the time I hit my fifties!  My Mamma Rutí is a lady I just loved to spend time with. We used to have our chats in the car when she’d take me home from the pool, out on the veranda at night-time and, of course, in the kitchen. She’s a great cook, I loved her dinners, so much that I didn't even miss chocolate and desserts! My favourite was this fantastic garlic and coriander prawn dinner she would do, I've yet to attempt replicating it here.

Mamma Rutí helped make my time in Panama so so so memorable. I am eternally in debt to her. She was the busiest lady but she always had time to chat and her house always had people calling in every hour of the day. I was always invited to whatever she was up to and she took me to the Patron Saint’s Festival with her in the town one evening where we gave little kids sweets and threw out confetti! She shared her culture (remember my yucca story?) and I learned so much from her. My idol.


That takes me on to my little friend Juan-Jose or JJ, which is actually pronounced Hota-Hota, so that was fun to say! 

He wasn't a big poser!


Little Hota-Hota was only two and a half and he’s Mamma Rutí’s grandson. He was so adorable I just wanted to steal him!!! He would never talk to me when I first arrived, not even a hello but by the time I was leaving we were playing games together (which is how I bashed up my laptop- totally worth it) and he’d make me sit down and watch TV with him. I made a friend! Yay!! Even if he did spit at me sometimes! :D


Paul, hey Paul if you’re reading this, please don’t kill me!



Happy out at Carnavales


Panama would not have been Panama without Paul (pronounced Pa-uuul, also more fun to say!) Paul is Mamma Rutí's son, and what a great son she has! Paul was our gateway to a social life! He invited us out at the weekends and we tagged along at Carnavales (best four days of partying ever), he’s even the reason I now have an iPhone that functions in Ireland (who knew they had to be unlocked?). Paul was great for the chats too, he says he’s ‘just a Latino boy’ but he’s the best! The best stories are the ones that can’t be rewritten!



Arturo, heyyyy! :D ‘Where is the moon? You stole my moon! Give me my moon’

On our way home from Santiago


Arturo was my bestie! He collected us from the airport when we arrived and as a result, for ages I thought he was Paul’s cousin but in Panama ‘tia’ doesn't literally mean ‘auntie’; it’s a term of respect for your friends parents… So that’s why he and Pauuul didn't look alike… like at all!
Arturo is such a great guy! He always invited me to join him hanging out, and so I’d be there as often as I could, he never really go the whole thesis thing- ‘Why do you have to work?’ wasn't uncommon to hear!

He’s one for the quotes though; ‘Do you need to piss or something?’… In reference to my dancing skills, which I can assure you have much improved since!
My last minute road trip with him and his friend Amelia to Santiago was one of the best adventures-because Arturo has great friends just like him! When Arturo comes to Ireland we’re going to find him a lovely red-head! :)



Richo, another friend was hilarious too, a few weeks after I arrived we went cruising around Panama city with Arturo hissing at girls, slowing down the car beside them saying ‘Hola Mamí’, but my absolute favourite was Richo doing his doggie bark at them! The entertainment we got from it belongs on a MasterCard advertisement! He’s a seriously talented guy too, makes clothing, follow his Clip account and check him out! 

He also has the curliest longest eyelashes…so jealous!



That’s only half the people that made my experience in Panama something to be remembered forever, coming up next are my Anayansis and Alejandra (the kids I taught English to and their mum), my brilliant nurse Juanita, Julissa my swimming pool friend and my gym coach Jhon! This entry is already long enough!



I might have left Panama but I haven’t left the friendships I've made behind <3 


Everyday Extraordinary.




Burning incense with Mamma Rutí at the festival
Plantain patacones, so so so good!

Tucking into another yummy dinner

Romantic candle-lit dinner 

Handy-man Paul changing a flat

The market outside our house one morning

Getting a history lesson from Mamma Rutí about the silverware

The festival in town Mamma Rutí took me to


Saturday 10 May 2014

Presidential elections Panama

Panama has a new president!


Varela's the new man for the job and his campaign colour is purple... that's about all I know about him. He used be is the same party as the previous president but left to join a different party.

I'm not really into politics but I think there's a thing or two election candidates in Ireland can learn from the Panamanian Presidential candidates.

For starters, they throw great parties! What better way to convince young people to get out there and vote? In the months, not to mind weeks leading up to the elections every weekend it seemed like there would be a presidential candidate party somewhere, with great music too!

There's a serious amount of paraphernalia too, flags all over town, brightening the place up. Since Carnavales I've a Varela bandana and Siobhán has a Varela water bottle. I've also got a Jose Domingo (another candidate) sun hat and we had a frisbee too but that's long been lost!

The campaign starts well in advance of voting day too (a Sunday), something I think we'd all get sick of in Ireland, imagine looking at posters of their faces for like four months? Fun...

Surprisingly, it's illegal to buy alcohol in a bar, restaurant or shop the day before and day of elections in case the voters should make the wrong decision while under the influence, we thought that was a bit extreme, but given the Panamanians possible drink more than even the Irish maybe it's warranted!?

Despite the fact we've been here for all of 'election fever' I still don't understand why some posters tell you to vote for someone as your seventh choice? Should they not all want your first choice?!

The main thing Panamanians are hoping the new president can do is reduce the cost of food, which has increased over the past year and been a failing of the previous president, hopefully this one will be able to do better and keep the people happy, but is it really possible to lower the cost of food? It seems the only way is up!

Also, my Facebook is very intelligent, I was getting ads for the presidential hopefuls prior to the elections, very savvy!



Siobhán's Varela water bottle

My Varela bandana


Thursday 1 May 2014

Yucca, it's all Natural Baby!

From farm to fork, or the garden to the gob, I 'helped' to dig up the yucca.


The yucca is like a potato, but dare I say, better?!

It grows underground and the skin peels off it like paper, way easier than peeling a potato!
And did I mention you get to use a machete to dig it up?

It's very strange though because the tree is actually really tall and when the tree is felled the bark is cut up into chunks which act as the seeds for new yucca plants to grow from.

It's usually boiled and then fried before eating. Labhaoise tried it while she was in Panama and gave it the thumbs up, almost better than chips and definitely healthier!

It tastes kind of like a potato but sweeter and has a much more fibrous, stringy texture. It's usually eaten with ketchup too but can be eaten plain.

And Mama Rutí eats it with maple syrup, now I dare you to try that with a potato!?



So that is what they sell the machetes in the shops for, how could I have though of anything sinister?


It's one big root





Digging up the yucca





Yucca's papery skin



Some more yucca skins



The washed, raw yucca




The end product



Saturday 26 April 2014

Parties in the Pool

I learn so much from my days in Mama Rutí's pool, it's where all the action is.


About a month ago there was a kiddie birthday party in the pool and it was sooooo cute! They had a pinata!!! This was before I had Costa Rica plans for my birthday and I thought to myself I'd celebrate my birthday with a pinata.Well, my birthday's well over but I'm still thinking I'll get one for the craic before I go!

The pinata



Another week there was a wedding in 'la finca' (the soccer pitch) behind the pool in the evening. It was so sweet and understated. It felt pretty casual, and pretty idyllic, with a pool party after? Hell Yea...I don't actually know if they had a pool party after but I'm hoping they did!



My creeping snaps, sorry they're blurry!








Getting the place set up for the night



Another Saturday I went to the pool it was the local fish factory's work party. Well this was hilarious! I wasn't hassled all day until they were wrapping things up around five when this guy (drunk) and his wife perched themselves beside me on the lounger and started having the chats. Then it came to medal presentations for their soccer league and low and behold I was called upon to present the medals to the winners. The guy in charge would pass me the medal and I'd give it to the winner and shake their hand, it was hilarious- and mortifying! After that was over I decided I could walk home instead of getting my usual lift with Mamma Rutí, there was no point making a spectacle of myself any longer!


A few weeks later I went to the pool on a weekday. Usually its really quiet during the week, with one elderly man and his coach and then a few odd people. This morning was very different.

I was in the pool about half an hour when a soccer team arrived. Grand. They left me alone. Grand. But not for long....

One of the players was I guy I met at the fish factory party and so he came over and said hello. Grand. Then he wanted to introduce me to his managers (or so I thought), instead I was introduced to, and shook hands with, 30-odd players and their managers as they sat in a giant circle in the restaurant area of the pool. I couldn't escape! I had the usual chats I have here (why I'm here, the colour of my skin, what I think of Panama and Panamanians), and had lunch and a few beers with them, they were actually very nice! They found it hard to believe that there are people whiter than me in Ireland (and I thought I was tanned, so sad)!

Apparently you're not supposed to mix watermelon and beer though, so I only had the one (They were all drinking Panama Light, my fave) since I'd eaten a massive chunk of watermelon earlier! They left around 3pm, inviting me to join them at some wedding party they were going to but I politely declined!

These are just a few days at the pool, the funniest days, another funny day was after we arrived when I was my whitest and these little boys and girls were all curious about me, calling me 'gringa' (only the boys, the girls learned my name) and we played tig in the water.

Finally, I've been asked for my photo in the pool with kids on more than a few occasions too... I would hate to be famous! It really is gas though.

So that's it, feeling very popular by the poolside! :D


Wednesday 23 April 2014

Panama Pool Poaching

Crystal clear pool, nom.



So a few weeks ago I went what's called 'Pool Poaching', or what I prefer to call 'Pool Crashing'.

I'd read about it on this guys blog where he gave instructions on exactly where the pool is in a few different hotels in the city and what to expect. He's since gone to even more pools that he gives the down-low on here. How convenient! I'll have to go for round two myself soon!

It was a great day's adventure!

I chose the Hard Rock Hotel pool since it boasted three jacuzzis with actual hot water in them (which is apparently rare in Panama).

Once in the lobby of the hotel I was up the elevator to AS2 where I strolled out onto the pool deck, casual as. I'd the bikini on underneath my dress and had my 'fancy bag' with me to look the part. I picked a free lounger and hopped into the pool straight away.

The place was pretty quiet and after a while I hopped into one of the free jacuzzis. It wasn't long before I had company. I had great chats with a Guatemalan guy (he must be minted was all I was thinking) who'd come for a bachelor's party. He introduced me to his friends and 'the Irish'- yep, one of his Guatemalan friends was GINGER! Couldn't believe it!

Better yet, I didn't have to worry about making up a room number as he foot the bill for my first Corona (yay). I let him in on my secret.  We had the chats with the lifeguard too, who was actually from La Chorrera (he didn't mind my crashing) so we'd loads to talk about!

The Guatemalan Bachelor's Party was headed to Casco Viejo for lunch and invited me but there was no way I was leaving the pool, it was so fancy!

The story's only beginning! 


The #nomakeupselfie timing was impeccable!



There was a group of people sitting where I'd left my bag, but when I went to move it they absolutely would not have me ousted from my place. This bunch was from the States and were gas craic. They looked about 30...but were actually all in their forties (why are they always so old?)...anyway, they were absolute gym boys, waxed chests and all and full of conversation. They were with two girls too that they'd picked up along the way! I had great guy conversation and watched as they took turns to chat up women by the poolside, it was great fun! I learned a few bits about the States too...Apparently the new norm for first dates in the States now is way beyond the casual kiss on the lips. And as for waxing chests? Total social norm too...yikes!

With these boys I had my first Corona Chilada (or Enchilada- at least that's what it sounds like), which is DEEELISH! It's a salt rimmed glass with lime soda that you add your Corona to, LOVE IT!

We were having the chats on the loungers when an employee came by and replaced the pool towel I was lying on for a fresh one, I definitely shouldn't have bothered bringing my own!

I felt like a Spanish pro as I made dinner reservations for the State-side boys. While some of the boys went souvenir shopping before they left I checked out their suite and had my first HOT SHOWER in two months...! I did not want to leave!


I don't think I've even been so excited about hot water!




Serious power shower!!!

I went to Arturo's hostel for the evening and had the craic arsing around on the skateboard, trying and failing to make any progress! Then at like half eleven I went back to the Hard Rock to check out the rooftop disco-bar with the State-side boys and two really nice Canadian girls they'd found in the mean time, they meant business! Anyway, the view from the bar was amazing!


The view from the roof-top bar

It was so different to my usual nights out here though, it was so European, there was no ass-dancing, was a bit stuffy and the crowd a bit old and the girls were all in heels!
I thought I'd leave at a respectable hour but on my way out I bumped into the Guatemalan fellas - the ass dancing crew, so much more fun! At this stage it was too late to get the bus back to La Chorrera so we stayed dancing and having the craic til half three...then I got a very 'interesting' taxi to the bus terminal and got back home before the sun rise- just about!

All in all, for a solo-adventure it wasn't half bad!



All lit up 

Wednesday 9 April 2014

Sweet Sixteen...Fifteen...What?

Sweet Sixteen...Fifteen...What?


Here in Panama, for some unknown reason (I've asked everyone) they celebrate fifteenth birthdays. It's their 'Super Sweet Sixteen'.

In the states you can drive a car, here girls get a ring for their fifteenth birthday.
And it's only for girls!

This weekend I was invited to my first fifteenth birthday party. EXCITED!

Alejandra, one of the girls I teach English to, turned 15 on Sunday and so the party was Saturday night. I was intrigued, this was an offer I couldn't refuse!

Friday before the party I got the best invite ever, hand delivered from across the road with a 'plus one' for my 'compañea' (Siobhan).


She likes to surf too :) 



Saturday night came and we got a lift to the restaurant with Alejandra's family. We were told that usually families can spend $2,000 on the 15th Birthday but they were keeping it small- a few close friends and the mother's side of the family (still about 40 people were there I think).

We arrived to Don Luis restaurant and chat with Ajejandra's friends and family. Before there was any sign of food there were a billion speeches- her sister, mother, father and Goddparents all spoke and her cousin sung her a song that I think she'd written herself. It was so cute! They even had a video of pictures from Alejandra's first birthday til now! I was particularly delighted too- I got a special mention in the mammy's speech! I had to stand up so everyone could see me as I was welcomed to Panama and to the del Carmen family. I felt so loved!



It felt very formal but they're all such good public speakers!



But when half eight came and there was still  no sign of food - apart from cheetos (they all eat cheetos here)- I was beginning to think maybe I'd got it wrong and there was no dinner at all...and Shivs and I were huuuungrrrry!

Food arrived when the speeches were finished though. Yay! This being one of the few meals I've had out now, I'm pretty sure people don't come to Panama for the cuisine. It's just a little boring. Don't get me wrong, the birthday dinner was tasty but it just wasn't anything special.


Birthday Dins  


Dessert was some sort of cake too, not that exciting either...
But we did get some Birthday champagne so that was fancy!  


And the party afterwards was so fun, I just wished I hadn't worn a dress so I could join in the action!
The boys and girls played Twister and played with hoola hoops (I could do that, attempt that) and played Just Dance (I chose not to do that). It was gas though, there's no way I could picture 15 year old girls and boys in Ireland playing like together that, they'd be too cool!



They don't play it like we play it either!



We stayed til after ten, when the crowed dwindled, hoping they'd cut the AMAZING cake, but no such luck!


How incredible is this? 

Buuuut when I arrived to give my English class Monday she had two slices of cake wrapped up for me to take home, deeeelighted! It was yummy! The filling was like a toffee flavour and the icing was crackly, how I don't know, but since sweet things are few and far between here Shivs and I made sure to enjoy it!

And finally, Alejandra gave me one of the little figurine decorations her auntie made her as a keepsake, it's adorable, I'll just have to make sure I wrap it up well for coming home!


My keepsake :) 




I think I should get myself an 'I love Panama' t-shirt before I leave!

Alejandra, the sweet fifteener :)



Some family and friends :) 

Cake time! Yum yum yum!